Sunday, April 24, 2011

"Good Morning Vietnam" ***Hanoi Haiku***


“Food! GLORIOUS food!”
Pig intestines, meatball pho
I must be in Vietnam!





Hanoi-you dirty city
white linens, muddified, stuck to calves
Good morning turtle yoga!




Wooden water puppets dance
one-stringed harp thing surreal soundings fly
jettisoning coi applaude.





Witnessing feather duster
and rolling rice hat bicycles cruise
While eating sidewalk stand. Look!

Criss-Crossing roads, just relax
Big breath in, small steps, eyes wide open
motos consume space around.




My Bali Finale--Uluwatu!


Having snorkeled my fingertips to prunes, I found my way back to the mainland for my grand Bali finale. Somehow, I managed to circumnavigate the ultra touristic, druggish/clubbish haven and dirty beaches of Kuta. Instead, I transported to within three kilometers of the famous monkey cliff temple of Uluwatu, and surprise! Surfers everywhere! Hidden cliff beaches lining the rocky shoreline, and surfers moto-scooting the back ways looking for their next break; I had NO idea this area was a such a mecca. What a relief to have found this magic place, especially since I was expecting something more resembling Mazatlan or Cancun. The easy, breezy attitudes of the people I met here was one of the best send offs from Bali. I could have definitely chilled here for quite some time.

I had been saving my Kechek experience for this temple. Kechek, an ancient form of dance and music, was originally “invented” by Balinese villagers to to purge a person or a community from illness. The mouths of a hundred men shape the complex timed rhythms of a Balinese orchesttra, as human versioned sounds of gamelan, gong, bamboo xylophone, flute, and drums sung off of another man's spoken metronome. Finding it difficult to actually ascertain which man was speaking which part, one is enveloped in the fullness of it's totality. Shoulders start to bounce uninhibitadly, and hands quiver spirit fingers (from my cheerleading days). They were all bare chested, with the traditional Balinese checkered super “invisible” cloak wrapped around their waistlines in effort to hide themselves from the evil spirits they were trying to purge. Dancers of the Ramayana Ballet came forth, and danced their story (the same story now told to me 4 times, but equally as intriguing) among the formations of the Kechek artists.
All of this amazing dance and music, perched on a cliff-top stage, surrounded by scavenging “holy” monkeys, at sunset.


THANK YOU BALI!

More Art & Spirit


Why Ubud? Hmmmm....









Goa Gajah!


Goa Gajah--an ancient Hindi temple discovered somewhat recently. This site is snuggled up to a village near Ubud, dug into a cliff hugging a river. I found the tree at the base of the site the most interesting; its roots covered the spance of its' great leaf sillouette. A few locals squatted ontop the roots, like tree frogs, only these ones were waiting to be a “guide” for curious tourists. One tried to show me the “Buddha head” boulders that once faced the river bend, but have since been bounced off their wall from mighty earthquakes. Looked like big rocks to me. I suppose I found the “guides” more interesting :)




Tuesday, April 19, 2011

**SNAP** “Oh My Gili!”


Three weeks later, I found myself having been eaten up by the magical mouth of the Ubud dragoness. Lore states She has been known to swallow people whole, especially travel worn Westerners and those looking for a new spirit domain. I met some of these victims. Tattered and torn in just the right places, they start to blend in with the volcanicy/jungled landscape. Sporting pieces of angled fabrics in yogic colors and third eyes studded with bone carvings, they speak in crystal tongues of esoteric origin of mandalas, ecstatic dance, and how important living off of air is. Fortunately, I was spit out with little wear and tear, my tongue and third eye intact, and my stomach full of organic salads and gado gado. But, I soon found I had a much heavier bag from the dragon's blessing's and offerings. Sri Ubud Dragon stopped my timepiece...I had spent my Bali time in, more or less, one place. To all of you Bali venturers...BEWARE! In the end, Sri Ubud Dragoness left me with plenty of Bali to come back for, and perhaps this was her intention :)

My escape involved a few accomplices from the “feather leather crew”, a getaway jeep cherokee, 4 hours of pseudosleep, and the feeling that if we waited much longer, Sri Ubud Dragoness would slice her tail through the misty air from on high, hooking us back into her cove. The escape was narrow-sweat beeding from our cheekbones-I felt exhilaration creeping from below. Our rendevoux point was just in front of the Padangbai Pier, where Laksmi blessed us with “fast boat” tickets to the Gili Islands off the coast of Lombok for an actually fair price.

Hard to leave the wonderland of Bali, yet harder to even imagine what was in store.

Our boat first arrived upon the white coral beach of Gili Air.  Having booked to the "Party Island", we jumped ship. Enticed by the turquoise clear waters licking our feet, we journeyed to a restaurant rumored to be the “best in town”. (In this town of 60.) While sipping a mind-blowing coconut shake that refreshed the esophagus in such a way, it's coolness radiated to my toes from the inside, I was affirmed. In strolls a friend I had met in India on the way to Arambol beach four years ago! What a trip! Having just purchased land on Gili Air, he is starting a yoga space. Future potentials abound!


The waters called me into its semi-clear depths to witness an amazing ancient creature lurking just below.  A solid, flying, round mass just beyond full clarity glided across my goggle-eyed panoramic view.  What on earth?  What in the the sea could it be???  I kicked a lil further.  Stopped breathing.  And stared.  Just below me, not 3 meters away, was a survivor for the books.  I had discovered my first sea turtle!  Not bad for the 3rd time snorkeling!



My five days here were consumed with the otherwordly experience the warm, turqouise waters Gili Air and Gili Meno had to offer.  With sunrises illuminating Lombok's Mount Rinjani on the horizon, and flying barecuda in the distance, I dipped into bliss every moment I could.  My rewards were plentiful.  I found myself surrounded by schools of little fish, glistening with each minisquel flip of their tail.  Electric blue starfish were splattered on the rocks below.  Unicorn fish with large horns protruding from their third eyes, bodies larger than my torso stared back at me.  Hundreds of white snapper encompassed me at one point- a fisherman's dream.  Perhaps wondering what this newly human-shaped white snapper would do next (my tan hadn't quite set in).  I unintentionally voyeured a pair of mating sea snakes--some of the most poisonous, of course.  And was blessed with the largest sea turtle ever.  The granmama.  Spotted fins and a head bigger than my own, she paraded the sea floor for grasses and bobbed to the surface for air.  The last morning, I was greeted by schools of bity squid, and strange blue luminescent orbs, that would disappear as they brushed my hand.  All of this to the neverending chorus of the coral nibbles of the parrot fish.

Parting by boat, my new crew reported that Gili Air is actually-"Gili Magic".  Gili Meno--"Gili Animal".  How right they were.




Wednesday, April 13, 2011

10 lessons of Scaling a Volcano in Bali

  1. BREATHE.

  2. Expect to get your A#! kicked!
    (Surprisingly easy to forget one is ACTUALLY SCALING A VOLCANO
    when its dark outside.)

  3. Directions are simple. When in doubt, go UP. When tired and weary, go DOWN.

  4. Hire a guide. ;)

  5. Lava plumes are SUPER slippery when wet...

  6. ...Which can be fun. Black lava crumbles to a sand-slide-able powder :)

  7. Sleepy eyes from arising at 0300 am are the most rewarded by the
    indescribable sunrise on the top.

  8. Bring an egg to cook in the ground off the steam vents of the active volcano!

  9. Say, “Salamut Pegi” (Good Morning) to the monkey also enjoying the view...
    and the crackers.
  10. Be grateful the volcano is a sleeping giant.


Shuffle, Step Hop—Dance On the Other Side



"HAIR! HAIR! HAIR! HAIR! HAIR! HAIR! HAIR! HAIR! Show it! Grow it!
Long as I can dance with it, my hair!"


Based on Hindi stories from the Ramayana text, I attended a few dance performances while in Ubud. Every night there was at least 3 performances of either gamelan music and/or dance at several stages throughout Ubud. The first show I attended had a two-manned monster-like puppet/costume with quaking hair and a chomping wooden mouth—The Barong. He was later joined by the Kris—one- manned costumed monsters with even longer dread like hair that shook and spun and quivered and danced. At this point, the story was pointless...I was taken. :)

The following evening, I found myself seated in front of a white curtain, with a fire lit just one foot beyond. In front of the fire, shadow puppets danced out a similar story. These stories are passed on from generation to generation by one puppet master to his kin, year after year, for hundreds and hundreds of years.

Several nights later, I attended another dance/gamelan show at the Ubud Palace. The Legong (dancing women all dolled up in gold regalia), followed by the Ramayana Ballet. “Ballet” meaning theater show. And how amazing it was! Situated in front of a candle-lit temple, I sat not two feet from the stage and the gamelan players. They chimed their music strangely and perfectly in unison, with the complicated 6/8, triplets, 4/4 and 9/6? time signatures as the dancers portrayed the story of Rama, Sita, and the evil king-man Ravana. Hanoman, the great money hero swept in to save the day, along with his tribe of miniature monkeys aged 3-10. So inspirational to see a multi-generational performance of such a sacred story.


Obo-Obo

Intimidated and awed.

The Obo Obo of each village stand scaringly proud against the ancient but bedazzeled temple backgrounds. I had just missed Nyepi...the annual festival in which all of the villages parade their Obo Obo to the town center, mock warring with each other along the way. A year's worth of invention and creative spirits of the villagers bring to life these demon enticers, so that the next year will be fruitful, good, and cleansed of the demons within.






Shopping? How can I?--Around Ubud




I have been spending a majority of my time cruising up the roads surrounding Ubud to find the actual craftsmen artistrating their works on the barren concrete floors with dentist tools and wire. In doing so, one escapes the rather touristed center of Ubud, complete with its thrice upmarked prices for the same goods. Passing through everyday Balinese life brings snapshots of women with some of the many daily offerings she makes for the community, and women working in the fields. And then there are the men, chillaxin at the local warungs. Hmmmm... :)

One would think it would be rather easy to pick the way through the shops lining the village streets to pick up a few items. However, each time I have gone, I am left defeated and empty handed. The problem is that EVERYTHING is SOOO well crafted, with such skill and love. And, each store has more or less the SAME stuff, and looks nearly identical on the outside. For instance, I went to the bone carving village or Tampaksaring. One could spend
 months walking up and down the miles of street, lined with one carver after another and their accompanying wares. There were times when I found something I really liked that I was unable to find somewhere else. However, these were often unsalable samples, intended on encouraging one to commission hundreds of identical pieces for crazy bargain prices for exportation. And, finding the store again could take another week. Also, with only my necessities in life strapped to my back, I am constantly taking into account the weight of each and every item added. How can I shop?



Really, life's all about the journey and the relationships that see you through it. Not the gold, mirrored buddha heads, stone-carved ganeshas, or silken batik dresses one finds along the way.
The real bonus on each venture is the panoramic view of rice paddies and the ecosystems encased within, with a massive volcano (Mt. Batur?) abruptly rising from the terraced greens beckoning both intimidation and awe.





Spirit Festival



Originally, I had my mind set on doing everything possible to avoid this Festival. Not because it had everything that I actually love doing. Not because I wouldn't normally want to participate in some way. Not because dance, yoga, and music in nature were on site at a Balinese museum with ancient temples for stages are irresistible. Merely, because I came to Bali for Bali.

That said, I was coherced by a good friend into splitting a ticket for only the music parts of the festival for the bargain price of $35. Four nights of world-class music, including traditional Balinese Kechek workshop and multiple performances, Australian Reggae, Hawaiian Marimba, Argentinian guitar, Canadian Indian-mixed-Irish rock, Arabian violin...the list goes on and on. I wasn't disappointed. All in all, I figured the cost was approximately a dollar and a half an hour, as I spent at least 25 in the music.

Great things come with ease, as their welcoming doors open themselves to those on their paths of truth. As Satirah, a new found favorite songbird sang, “I've come to the right place, from such a long way”. Why did I come here? Its simple. It was too easy. I wonder the long term effects of this threshold I traversed. Perhaps a future venture on the other side of the stage is in order...?

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Water washes away


The Magical Mystery Tour with Jojo on my second day on arrival to the Ubud area led us to an authentic Balinese experience few tourists will find and even fewer will live. We hooked up with some of his friends who were venturing forth to a sacred water temple not far from our housing. What they neglected to tell us, was that this temple was unknown to even many of the locals. Off the beaten path, it took years for even our guide, their friend, to be able to find it. They also neglected to tell us of our need to bring sarongs, one for bathing in, and one for praying in. Suckered into purchasing two batik sarongs, I had some reservations about what exactly we were getting ourselves into. Past travels have jaded me in this sense, for the better and for the worse. Nevertheless, we were on our way, hoping it wouldn't cost me any more to attend the temple. My worries were tampered upon our arrival to a deep ravine with mossed stairs winding down down down to waterfalls and sculpted faces hidden amidst the jungle.

Donning the traditional sarong, and pulling my hair back (“as a sign of disipline”), I tiptoed with the others into the water. We were the only people there.

Depth brings beauty. Plunging headfirst into the cold waterfall caused instantaneous tightening of my neck, shoulders, face and arms. I pushed further into the rock, laying my belly into its mossy surface with each breath, cupped my hands in my face, and opened my eyes. Cool serenity enveloped me, erasing all tension. Present. Spirit. Healing. Here.



Just before our last prayers at the water temple, an old psychic/temple dweller said with a smile...”you forgot something”. We all looked after our belongings, and nodded no. Again, “you have forgotten something”. No, I had my stuff. Besides, he hadn't been with us. “You forgot something”.

Our evening ended with coffee at our guides house. It was here that I learned that I hadn't been duped. This was a traditional, Balinese experience worth every penny I paid for the sarongs. He charged us local prices (not upmarked by our touristed shells). It was here I learned his wife purchased, prepared, and performed the customary blessings for us on the eve of our venture. It was here, I learned Gooday (our guide) had purchased the incense, flowers and palm-leaf woven blessings we used to pray with at the temple. It was here I learned friend, Jill, had forgotten her ring.